Denver might be famous for its craft beer, but Scott Thomas is proving the Mile High City has a serious appetite for Italian wine. As sommelier for Restaurant Olivia and Dear Emilia, Scott holds one of the beverage world’s most elite titles: He is one of only 22 certified Italian Wine Experts globally.
Scott has dedicated his career to understanding and demystifying Italy’s seemingly endless grape varieties and regional styles. “I was just hooked. Once I started digging deeper into the different varieties, producers, and regional styles, I realized there’s something in different wines Italian wine for every single palate. It’s a process of nonstop education. The sheer volume of regions, grapes, and variations every year is endless, and that’s really what keeps my passion going.”
What drew you to Italian wine, and what did it take to earn your title? “Italian wine transformed my whole relationship with wine because these bottles are built for the table. After working in distribution, I moved to Italy to pursue a master’s degree, which opened my eyes to the deep connection between wine and culture. Becoming certified was a years-long process. To pass, I had to achieve a specific score on the ambassador’s exam and complete a blind tasting on the spot. It required mastering everything from soil geology to regional microclimates. But for me, it wasn’t about earning a title; it was about gaining knowledge so I could share it with others.”
What makes Denver a great market for Italian wine? “We actually have a long history of Italian wine appreciation here, supported by over 100 distributors and importers bringing incredible bottles into Colorado. Our local diners are endlessly curious. Many have traveled to Italy and want to continue that cultural conversation at the table. Having that title gives me credibility, but Denver’s open-minded guests are what allow us to explore diverse regions and lesser-known varieties.”
How have restaurants like Dear Emilia and Restaurant Olivia influenced the city’s appreciation for Italian wine? “I ask myself these questions every day: ‘Are we on the right path, and are we providing the service that is the North Star?’ Emilia is very regionally focused, which lets us have detailed conversations about specific areas of Italy. Olivia allows for a lot of flexibility, so I’ve built a vast list to match the cuisine.”
Lambrusco has often been misunderstood. Why should diners give it another chance? “People often remember the heavy, sweet versions from decades ago, but Lambrusco is actually a family of over 14 distinct grape varieties. Dry Lambrusco is dark, fizzy, and elevated in acidity, making it incredibly food-friendly.”
What’s your ideal summer or fall wine-and-dish pairing? “Wow, that’s hard. For a perfect Colorado evening after hitting the farmers market, I’d serve a bright, dry Lambrusco di Sorbara alongside a fresh peach and summer salad. Acid loves acid! Or, if you’re firing up the grill on a crisp fall evening, a Lambrusco Grasparossa pairs brilliantly with a classic burger.”
What keeps you rooted in Colorado? “I left Denver for over two years to live in Italy, but I loved Denver so much I had to come back. The sunshine, the mountains, the lifestyle, and our thriving dining scene make it special. My wife and I feel part of this community.”
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