As we take our seats, we know we’re in for a treat. After taking the Michelin world by storm, chef Johnny Curiel is sharing the tastes and traditions of his father’s mountainous homeland in a way that’s all about connection. The menu at his newest restaurant is designed around campestre-style gatherings—lively family parties where everyone snacks on crudo, vegetables, and wine while waiting for whole animals to smoke. Handmade ceramics, blown glass, and a mural by Denver artist Delton Demarest reflect the region’s earthy beauty, and walls lined with leather from mariachi uniforms and woven tortilleros nod to tradition.
We start with the Tostada de Toro, the perfect happy hour bite with guacamole, zesty habanero mayo, and bluefin tuna on a sturdy tostada. I sip a silky tequila-mezcal white negroni, while my friend opts for the bright, bubbly paloma. From there, the menu moves into light bites, shareables, and a celebration of corn meant to be enjoyed as the main dish cooks. We leave wine to Justin, the sommelier, who perfectly pairs glasses as our plates arrive.
All of Alteño’s ceramics are custom-crafted, and I lap up every last drop of the Aguachile de Atún—lean tuna swimming in a lemony broth, with crisp green apple—from a dish that playfully nods to a dog bowl. Baked Hokkaido Scallop, presented in a half clamshell, is perfectly seared and succulent, with silky serrano butter and a whisper of salsa negra that enhances, rather than overwhelms, the delicate seafood. The Pan de Elote, jalapeño cornbread topped with huitlacoche butter, is a comfort food flavor explosion, with chunks of corn and pockets of melted Tillamook cheddar, making it easily one of the most craveable breads I’ve ever had. The Gringa al Pastor comes like an open-face quesadilla on a fluffy sourdough tortilla smeared with Oaxacan cheese and topped with tender, well-seared pork and pops of grilled pineapple. Alma’s Michelin-recommended agave-kissed Camote Asado sweet potato also appears on this menu, with salsa matcha over a bed of ricotta-like cheese.
When the Barbacoa Tatemada hits the table, it’s the campestre showstopper—the moment everyone’s been waiting for. The slow-roasted lamb shank is so tender, it easily falls off the bone. We wrap each bite in a warm tortilla, with bitter greens to brighten and creamy avocado salsa to bring the heat.
We finish the meal with thick, creamy Flan Napolitano, nutty with hints of honey. And because it’s dairy- and gluten-free, my stomach is just as smitten as my taste buds.
At Alteño, Curiel is doing more than cooking for you—he’s adopting you into the family.
For more on Alteño, pick up the print version of Denver Life Magazine at local newsstands or download the digital version.
