I treated my fiancé, Justin, to Denver’s newest omakase dinner, Sushi by Scratch Restaurants, for his birthday. Among the many exquisite chef’s counter sushi experiences in Denver, two things set this one apart. First, it’s hidden behind the mural of the restaurant group’s upstairs burger joint, NADC Burger (more on that deliciousness later), making it a perfect surprise date. Second, it’s part of a Michelin-starred Scratch Restaurants Group.
New Restaurateur in Town
I first experienced restaurateur and chef Phillip Frankland Lee’s talent at his debut restaurant, Scratch Bar, in LA in 2016. The impeccable service and food quality left a lasting impression. Chef Lee cooked our dry-aged 20-ounce ribeye in the open kitchen while making gourmet popcorn for us to snack on. Meanwhile, my server, noticing I looked chilly, offered me a pashmina in a color to match my outfit—a perfect touch of hospitality. Scratch is bringing that same dedication to excellence with its two new Denver concepts: NADC Burger upstairs and Sushi by Scratch Restaurants downstairs.
A Burger Worth the Hype
Walking into the Larimer Square burger joint, you’re greeted by a vibrant ’90s skate-culture mural by local artist Sam Pierson, setting the tone for the casual yet intentional space. Conceived in partnership with pro skater Neen Williams, the menu is delightfully simple: just a wagyu cheeseburger and fries. The smash-style burger is made with 100 percent full-blood wagyu beef sourced from Texas’s R-C Ranch. It’s smothered with American cheese, diced pickles, jalapeños (mellowed to perfection), secret sauce, and seasoning from Williams’ own spice company, NADC. Juicy with a crispy edge, it’s the kind of burger you won’t want to put down once you pick it up. It might be my favorite burger in Denver. And don’t skip the fries—golden, perfectly crispy, and available “beast mode,” loaded with all the toppings that make the burger shine.
Sushi Surprise
Justin, ever so gracious, seemed genuinely excited about his “birthday burger,” if a little confused about why we had dressed up so much. Instead of heading to the counter to order, I opened a hidden door in the mural and led him downstairs. We stepped out of the elevator into a dimly lit, speakeasy-style room featuring sleek black leather couches, a well-stocked bar, and elegant canapés on the tables. That’s when I let him in on the surprise: we weren’t here for burgers (though we could grab some for dessert). We were about to enjoy a seventeen-course omakase-style nigiri tasting at the ten-seat chef’s counter, helmed by chef Munetoshi Taira, who spent the last decade at Matsuhisa in Vail.
An Intimate Culinary Journey
We were invited to arrive thirty minutes early for welcome cocktails and canapés, which set the tone for the evening. Each appetizer was a masterclass in texture: silky shrimp with a dusting of crispy rice and an indulgent yet airy egg custard topped with charred wagyu crumbles. On just the sixth night it was open, the team—trained extensively at Scratch’s other locations—delivered a seamless experience. Every seat was filled at our 5 p.m. seating, and we were told the two later seatings that evening were fully booked as well.
When we entered the dining room, chef Munetoshi Taira was seasoning the rice, filling the space with the tang of vinegar. Rice is a point of pride here. Imported from Japan, brown rice is ground daily to remove the bran, making it nutrient-rich, easily digestible, and buttery in flavor. Each grain has a perfect bounce, and the rice is packed loosely in each nigiri to break apart effortlessly in your mouth, blending seamlessly with the fish. It is also infused with kelp to impart an umami flavor. There are no chopsticks here. Instead, you’re encouraged to use your fingers, scooping each bite up with your hand.
Perfect Harmony
The seventeen courses unfolded like a Broadway play: three chefs worked in perfect coordination in front of us, all while making friendly conversation. Our fellow diners were foodies, sparking lively conversations about the best spots in Denver. Fresh wasabi was shaved between each bite; fish, wagyu, and bone marrow were torched; drink pairings were served; and we were all wowed. We sampled everything: jellyfish, which was much stiffer than we had anticipated and nothing like a jelly consistency; to yellowtail so fatty it’s nicknamed “the booty” in Japan; akami and dry aged o-toro bites of tuna that melted in our mouths; uni wrapped in seared seaweed that left us wanting another taste. The chefs combine at least three elements into every bite, and all the sauces and pickled palette cleansers are house-made. Each bite is served directly from the chef, and you are encouraged to eat it immediately as all the elements are at their perfect temperature.
“People often say my sushi isn’t traditional,” Lee says. “But it’s actually rooted in specific historical periods of sushi. It’s just not what diners are typically used to.” Sushi originated as single pieces served from street carts, eaten immediately for freshness, he explains. It wasn’t until after the atomic bomb, when air quality concerns pushed vendors indoors, that sushi restaurants as we know them emerged.
Whether you’re surprising someone special or treating yourself to an unforgettable meal, both of Scratch’s concepts in Larimer Square deliver. From the best burger in town to an expertly crafted omakase, neither will disappoint.
