Chef and owner Bo Porytko opened Molotov Kitschen + Cocktails as a tribute to his Ukrainian heritage in 2023. The vibe is akin to a grandma’s antiques-stuffed home and the food follows this cozy feel with a menu of Ukrainian comfort dishes. And the seats quickly filled. Partly because of size—seating for about 28 people including the chef’s counter—but the food, atmosphere, and the chef’s star power are undeniably the biggest draws. Porytko’s profile reached new heights as a James Beard Awards Emerging Chef semifinalist in 2023 and Best Chef: Mountain semifinalist in 2024. What immediately put Molotov on the map, however, was its inclusion in the New York Times 2023 best restaurants in America list.
Molotov’s menu—short and curated by zakusky (bites), mains, and dessert—changes with the seasons but stays true to the basic concept of Ukrainian staples. Regardless of the time of year, borscht, a Ukrainian sour soup staple, is a must. The beet and plum borscht broth is poured tableside over smashed potatoes topped with yogurt and dried candied beets.
Elsewhere on the shareable starters, elk tartare is punched up with malt vinegar, mustard greens, and smoked horseradish. The umami-heavy tomato kholedets uses tomato water in an aspic, the jelly filled with bright dill and tomatoes, and the rest of the plate loaded with marinated heirloom tomatoes, radish, and croutons. Last came the corn and crab varenyky—Ukrainian dumplings in this case filled with crab and laid in a cold smoked corn broth. On top, herbs, both freeze dried and fresh corn, and, the kicker that brings it to another level, heaps of bright orange roe.
While finishing the final bites of elk tartare, Porytko stops the kitchen for a call-and-response toast and hands me a small pour of horilka (infused vodka): Porytko yells “budmo!” and we all respond “hey!” before downing the shot. Like the food, the horilka infusions rotate. Horseradish—a favorite of Porytko’s after eating tartare—stays constant, and the palate reset before the mains make a clear case why.
Fish Kiev and chicken paprikash are passed from the kitchen to my counter spot shortly after. Both look humble but taste indulgent paired with a crisp white wine. In the former, sole is stuffed with lobster, grilled, and rolled in rye crumbs, then placed next to buttery potatoes and surrounded by a rich broth. The confit chicken is covered in a vibrant orange sauce, mirepoix, parsley, and chives, nearly hiding the tender bird beneath.
A fruity, savory finish waits with a dessert of layered kissel, the gel lifted by stone fruit, mint, and whipped cream. And, of course, horilka to wash it all down.
