Tucked just off of Evergreen’s main drag, Evoke 1923 is fittingly housed inside a 1920s-era building once home to the Rocky Mountain Tea Room. Inside, it still carries the bones of its past—wood beams, a wood-burning fireplace that fills the room with a soft flicker, and a sun porch that frames golden-hour sunsets over a quiet meadow. It’s the kind of place where the white tablecloths are scraped after every dish, the flowers on the tables are cut fresh every morning, and you notice—more than once—that everyone dressed a little nicer for dinner, even in a laid-back mountain town where casual is king. It’s proof that formality isn’t outdated—it’s just been hiding out in the hills.
A lavender sour mocktail with Seedlip spirits arrives as a welcome gift, gently bitter with a crisp, floral finish. The smoked margarita layers chili-infused mezcal with Aperol and orange bitters— bright citrus up front, smoky on the finish. And the nutty old fashioned—made with bourbon, rum, hazelnut liqueur, ginger, and orange-spiced simple syrup—brightens the smoky classic with a mai tai-esque fruity island flair.
House focaccia comes golden on all sides, still soft in the middle, with roasted tomato oil. If you’re smart, you’ll save a few pieces to dip into the sauce of every dish that follows. The filet mignon tartare is deeply umami, mixed with mushroom tamari and topped with pickled beech mushrooms and bright-yolked quail eggs, with housemade chips to scoop it all up. A standout salad of strawberry and watercress blooms off the plate—chèvre acting as the ground, while dried prosciutto gives texture and shape to the flower of watercress that springs out of a persimmon vinaigrette puddle in the center, like a soft punch of acid.
Then there’s the scallop-topped mushroom ravioli, filled with butternut squash, crimini mushrooms, and cheese, sitting in a sweet pea-lobster tarragon cream that manages to be both rich and restrained. The scallops are textbook-seared, and go well with the pasta. For something heavier, the rich, lean elk loin is grilled and served with a brown butter celery root purée that’s unexpectedly silky and savory, closer to potato than you’d think. Brussels sprouts lend crunch, while tart cherries round it out with brightness.
If you’re dressing up for dinner, you’re staying for dessert. The mille-feuille stacks creamy dark chocolate mousse with sheets of crispy chocolate bark. A pile of hazelnut pralines adds a salty-sweet crunch you’ll wish came by the handful. Paired with an espresso martini, it’s the kind of finish that rewards the effort of ironing your pants.
Evoke isn’t chasing trends. It’s reviving a sense of occasion, in a setting that feels timeless. If you’re craving a dinner that’s thoughtful and transportive, this one is worth the drive.
To learn more about dining at Evoke 1923, pick up the print issue of Denver Life Magazine at local newsstands or subscribe to the digital version.
