In Denver’s competitive dining scene, where new restaurants seem to pop up every week, making it to 40 years is no small feat. But Sushi Den, which opened its doors four decades ago this month, is no ordinary restaurant. Founded by brothers Toshi and Yasu Kizaki, it has built a reputation on a singular, uncompromising vision: flying in the freshest fish from Japan daily, a commitment that’s kept this sushi institution at the top of its game for four decades.
“We opened on Christmas Eve, and the place was packed,” recalls chef Yasu Kizaki. “But I remember looking at my brother and saying, ‘If all our friends are here tonight, who’s coming tomorrow?’” Despite initial struggles and plenty of uncertainty, the Kizaki brothers persevered, and their influence on Denver’s sushi culture is undeniable. Today, Sushi Den remains consistently full, with reservations as coveted as ever. Conde Nast Traveler once wrote, “The brothers behind this exemplary sushi restaurant in Old South Pearl have served as Denver’s unofficial ambassadors of Japanese cuisine since 1985.”
Dining at the chef counter offers an experience beyond just sushi—it’s an immersion into Japanese culinary tradition. No menus are necessary; the chefs curate an omakase meal tailored to each guest’s palate. Chef Yasu explains the subtleties, like why each course begins with hot green tea. “Fish contains a lot of oil,” he says. “Cold water or sake congeals it on your tongue, but green tea washes it away, preparing you for the next bite.” As we delve into the meal, we discuss the differences in dining dynamics between Japan and America. Yasu notes that restaurants in Japan tend to be quiet, emphasizing a focused appreciation for the food, unlike the local tendency to chat between bites.
The tasting starts with toro wrapped in delicate slices of bluefin tuna, each bite balanced and brightened with diced onions and microgreens. The buttery miso black cod follows, melting in your mouth with floral and fruity undertones. For an hour, a parade of pristine nigiri arrives, each piece perfectly seasoned—no soy sauce needed. The fish lineup varies, featuring salmon, snapper, and hamachi, all flown in and selected with the precision that has defined Sushi Den’s legacy.
The meal concludes with a family favorite: a slice of banana cream pie, a playful and unexpected finish to an unforgettable evening. As Sushi Den prepares to open its next chapter with Denchu, a new omakase concept, it’s clear that the Kizaki brothers’ vision has left an indelible mark on Denver’s dining scene. And after 40 years, the love for this place—and the quality of its fish—has never wavered.
