As the sun spills over the Continental Divide, warming the snow-capped peaks in hues of pink and gold, I momentarily wonder if I’m still dreaming. I watch early risers gliding along the cross-country trails below my window, a lucky few pulled by their dog. But then I spot it—a bright red snowcat rumbling toward the lodge. This isn’t a dream; it’s the stuff dreams are made of. Today, we are experiencing Devil’s Thumb Ranch’s newest adventure, only one year old: private guided backcountry cat-skiing. Within minutes, the snowcat whisks us deep into pristine wilderness. At the top of the ridge, I step out of the cozy warmth of the snowcat and into the crisp mountain air, my skis sinking thigh-deep into a sea of untouched powder. We are the first people all season with the pleasure of skiing the untouched slopes. As the hum of the snowcat fades into the distance, a profound silence settles over the Rockies, leaving us enveloped in the unspoiled majesty of nature. Below me stretches a powder-filled playground, soft pillows of snow begging to be plowed through— and farther down, a heated yurt awaits, promising steaming elk chili and an ice-cold beer to cap off the perfect run. For now, it’s all bouncy turns and blissful face shots for me.
Founded in the 1930s as a homestead and dairy, Devil’s Thumb Ranch retains much of its historic charm while adding modern amenities and an eco-conscious focus. Its long-standing, immaculately groomed cross-country ski trails, dotted with warming huts and designed by Olympic cross-country skier Dick Taylor, debuted in 1974 and continue to rack up accolades from the likes of Condé Nast Traveler and USA Today. Meanwhile, Wine Spectator honors the Ranch House with awards, Vogue features the glamorous summer weddings, Outside praises its sustainability, Forbes highlights its cruelty-free Western decor and an organic spa, and The Denver Post lauds its mountain biking courses.
When Bob and Suzanne Fanch bought the property in 2001 to save it from demolition, they introduced a host of sustainable practices that enhance the ranch experience. From banning snowmobiling and hunting on the property, thus increasing wildlife sightings, to installing solar panels that supply the spa’s energy and geothermal power sources to heat the saltwater pool, every effort is made to reduce environmental impact. The ranch also sustainably raises a herd of over 150 purebred Wagyu cattle, providing premium steaks and burgers to its restaurants, while its on-site Kendra’s Gardens grows kale, bok choy, and other produce. Even the honey served at the ranch is sourced from its own hives—just one more way Devil’s Thumb prioritizes living in harmony with its environment.
Its newest offering, backcountry cat skiing, epitomizes this ethos. By accessing untouched powder via a snowcat rather than chairlifts or helicopters, the experience minimizes environmental impact while granting skiers a chance to connect with the natural world on its own terms. It’s a fitting addition to Devil’s Thumb Ranch, where sustainability and adventure work hand-in-hand, offering an adrenaline- filled way to honor the wilderness while leaving it as unspoiled as you found it. I, on the other hand, am feeling rather spoiled.
After an action-packed morning on the slopes, we unwind at the pool, watching the sun dip behind cloud-dusted peaks, casting the ranch’s lodges in alpenglow. Steam floats off our soaked bodies and the water’s surface as we alternate between the sauna, steam room, and hot tub. Another couple soaking nearby shares stories of their afternoon at the stables, where they rode horses and fed the barnyard animals. A family that joins us later insists we check out the movie theater and game room—complete with a bowling alley—and just like that, our after-dinner plans are set.
The next morning, we take advantage of the complimentary yoga class at the spa. As our instructor guides us, she speaks of embracing nature’s cycles of renewal—like each sunrise. It’s a fitting farewell to a place that embodies adventure and tranquility in perfect harmony.
