Rougarou isn’t trying to be cool—it just is. Swamp rock fills the room, the scent lands somewhere between a musky hotel lobby and a humid night in New Orleans, and the whole place feels ready to party. It’s magnetic, the kind of restaurant packed on a Tuesday night with Denver’s insiders: off-duty bartenders, food writers, and locals who know atmosphere counts just as much as what’s on the plate.
The latest venture from Mary Allison Wright, her brother, chef John David Wright (who’s cooked at Hop Alley, Uncle, and Odie B’s), and her husband, McLain Hedges, comes from the James Beard–nominated team behind Yacht Club. In a 125-year-old house in Five Points, Rougarou channels the swagger of a rock ’n’ roll dive bar and the soul of the South—part neighborhood haunt, part bayou fever dream. The name nods to the werewolf-like creature of Louisiana folklore, and there’s a touch of that mythic mischief in every corner, especially the one with the bar.
Start with one of McLain’s classic drinks, like the New Orleans signature Sazerac with a hint of melon and the bell-pepper-forward Holy Trinitini dirty martini, or dive into a more complex tiki creation like the coconut cream Champagne Killer. But honestly, why stop at one when the options are this good? “We wanted drinks that could hang with the food,” McLain says. “Nothing fussy, just full of flavor and fun.”
Chef John’s menu of “shape-shifting Southern food” reinvents traditional dishes with fine-dining flair. The West Indies crab salad is brightened with fresh mint and jalapeño, and thankfully, no mayo. Skip the chicken and you’re skipping the point: this Southern staple gets a full-on makeover at Rougarou. Served on a stick, it could rival any fried chicken in Denver on its own, but slather it with sweet pepper jelly and spicy aioli comeback sauce, and you’ll be dreaming of the crunchy, juicy dichotomy for weeks. Or, order Granddad’s Chicken for elevated comfort at its finest: confitted, then grilled to fall-off-the-bone, charred perfection, finished with a tangy Virginia white barbecue sauce. The hot and sour catfish is another must-order, transforming an often-overlooked “bottom-feeder” into a showstopper. Panko-crusted and perfectly crisp, the flaky fish is brightened with a vinegar sauce, and the spice is mellowed by jelly. Even the sides, like buttery grits studded with sea salt and anchovy-dressed green beans, show off the kitchen’s knack for detail. Finally, order desserts like a duet—the sorghum sundae and the McLain family recipe buttermilk pie—best enjoyed together so their sweetness can play in perfect harmony.
Between the late-night hours (the kitchen’s open until 1 a.m.), a dining room that feels lively even on weeknights, and an ever-changing menu of reinvented Southern staples, Rougarou has loudly cemented itself as a trailblazing and trend-setting force in Denver’s dining scene.
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