As I sink into a plush banquette at Kumoya, the Highland sushi and izakaya restaurant, general manager Wes Zelio points out the ninety-five years of combined experience behind the sushi counter. Executive chef Corey Baker brings two decades of expertise from Denver favorites like Sushi Den, Sushi Sasa, Sushi Hai, and his own Sushi Ronin. For this venture, he’s partnered with Culinary Creative’s Max Mackissock to craft a dreamlike space. The walls glow with burnt sienna, deep crimson, and soft blush, complemented by delicate cherry blossom murals that seem to float across the walls. Cloud-like lighting makes it feel like dining in the sky. And with my first bite, I’m in heaven.
Kumoya offers multiple levels of omakase and expert servers to guide your journey. We begin with broiled eggplant glazed in miso sugar and topped with crisp rice beads. The dish is a revelation—who knew eggplant could be that creamy? The wagyu tartare, crowned with foie gras shavings and a soy-and-shallot-cured egg yolk, is served with milk bread, a buttery, light bite that perfectly balances indulgence and texture.
Drinks receive the same meticulous attention as the food and decor. My Yuzu Bee cocktail is crafted with imported Japanese honey that leans acidic rather than sweet, giving it a complex profile. And sake lovers, take note: Kumoya boasts over 120 bottles, including rare, ceremonial, and off-menu varieties. Our pick, the Kikusui, bursts with orange blossom notes and a velvety richness.
Then, the main event: nigiri and sushi rolls. The orange yellowtail—fed a diet of chocolate and orange—tastes light, citrusy, and impossibly fresh. The king salmon toro is luxuriously fatty yet clean. The barracuda delivers a satisfying barbecue char. But the showstopper is the dry-aged toro, crowned with caviar and a gold leaf, delivering a delicate metallic depth that’s uniquely intoxicating. A flight of wasabi—fresh ground, horseradish, and pickled—playfully dresses up each bite. The rolls are equally exquisite. The Sake, salmon tartare and avocado topped with seared salmon, is bright with a subtle garlic flavor. The Negitoro, a mix of bluefin belly and scallion, showcases refined simplicity.
For dessert, a Japanese-inspired tiramisu layers cream, citrus, and a lattice of bitter dark chocolate on top. The meal flows at a perfect, unhurried pace, with the chefs’ playful camaraderie adding to the immersive experience. Kumoya offers more than dinner out—it’s an ethereal escape, a sensory journey where stellar sushi meets dreamy design. As I leave, I’m already craving another taste of the clouds.
