Some of my favorite meals in Italy have been in humble, unexpected spots—just like Osteria Alberico in Englewood, nestled next to a King Soopers. One night, fresh pasta, Colorado lamb, and lesser-heralded Italian wines arrived at my table in delicious succession.
Osteria Alberico is the latest from Frasca Hospitality Group, a leader in Colorado’s rapid rise to a nationally recognized dining scene. Led by master sommelier Bobby Stuckey—named one of America’s 50 most powerful people in fine dining—the group boasts Frasca Food and Wine’s Michelin star, Tavernetta’s Bib Gourmand, chef recognition from the James Beard Foundation, and Sunday Vinyl’s spot on Esquire’s “42 Best Bars in America.” So it should come as no surprise that Osteria Alberico’s location belies the quality of food and service inside.
“The core value of this place is a true Italian osteria,” chef Russell Stippich says. “A place for people to come a couple of times a week for great service, great food, and an amazing wine list.”
The ethos rings true to the traditional definition of an osteria, which in Italy is typically more casual than a ristorante. The ingredient quality and attention to detail at Osteria Alberico fall somewhere in the middle. It is a neighborhood restaurant with classic Italian dishes, but the cooking highlights carefully sourced ingredients. Crowd-favorite cocktails share the drinks menu with a multipage wine list filled with Italian wines that run the gamut from familiar to varietals harder to find Stateside. If there’s one piece of advice to follow, it is to arrive hungry. Dinner starts with the antipasti. The cicoria is an indulgent savory take on greens, with smoky and charred radicchio di lusia smothered in breadcrumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Incredibly fluffy focaccia is encased in an herby crust. Bright carrots covered in Calabrian honey and pine nuts maintain just the right amount of crunch.
Moving to the pastas, the slow-cooked mafaldine leans on pasta with the wavy shape of lasagna from Sfoglina that grab the grated cheese and ground pork and beef. Osteria Alberico makes the tagliolini noodles in-house and dresses them lightly to highlight the fresh pasta (other than a heap of finely shaved black truffle on top). If in the mood for pizza, the pies are quick-cooked in a custom woodstone oven. The crust is thin with a blackened edge, making even a standard margherita pizza feel luxurious.
All of these items could make for a memorable meal. My attention was stolen, however, when the Colorado lamb arrived. The kitchen lets the sustainably raised lamb speak for itself with an outer char and light coating of saba, a slow-cooked and subtly sweet grape vinegar.
Osteria is a neighborhood spot, but the draw of its elevated classics are sure to be a beacon for many more.
